The pleasures of India Gate

Imagine a place where there is a kilometer long lane of cars parked on both sides of the road, where there is a large number of Delhi's families coming there with just family members, or with extended family to spend a fun filled evening. There is ice-cream, cold drinks, and many kinds of small snacks available over there. And the place is slightly colder than the heat of the city. And of course, there are the wide green lawns, and a beautifully lighted India Gate at one end, and the lighting of the North Block / South Block at the other end.
When we reached there, parking was an issue; there were so many people who had already reached there. Eventually we found parking closer to the Boat Club side, and then walked to the India Gate side. The sight that we saw brought a lot of smiles - there were kids playing football (with other kids or with an indulgent elder\parent), there were extended families playing either cards or antakshari (a songalathon) with sheets spread on the greenery.
And then there were the families with extended eating plans - bed sheets, tiffin carriers, casseroles, big jars full of either water or some sort of liquid, topped with ice cream from the large number of ice cream vendors selling their wares. In the partial darkness of the night, one could also see something lighted suddenly going up in the air and coming down again. Getting closer, one could clearly see that these were actually kids toys. We did not do most of these things, but just indulged in walking casually from one end to the other end (tip: I think that the lighting of the India Gate gets turned off at 10 PM, since that is what actually happened dot at 10 PM). Other than that, some chanas and some stale bhelpuris were consumed.
While watching all these families enjoying themselves, I also thought about the people who were all doing the selling, whether that be the ice cream sellers, the people selling the snacks, or the people selling the toys; and the policemen over there who were there to help others. These people, watching entire families enjoying themselves, must be feeling something - or maybe they have spent so much time that they no longer feel different (but I doubt that).


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Delhi Monuments: Salimgarh Fort

Recently, the Salimgarh Fort (located just next door to the Red Fort) is in the news. The Government is planning steps to make this into a tourist destination and ensure that it is well looked after. But what exactly is the Salimgarh Fort ?
The fort is somewhat polygonal in shape and is bounded by solid masonry walls. You can enter the fort from the northern gate that is also called the Bahadur Shahi Gate (so named because Bahadur Shah Zafar constructed it in 1854-55 AD. The gate is built of brick masonry with red sandstone sparingly used. The fort used to enclose numerous lofty bastions but unfortunately only the ruins of those can be seen now.
The Salimgarh Fort was built in 1546 on an island of River Yamuna by Islam Shah Suri, son and successor of Sher Shah Suri. In 1622 AD, Jahangir constructed a bridge and connected the fort to the mainland, later removed by the British when they built a railway line through it. This grand structure was then connected to the Red Fort by Shah Jahan, and the fort finally became a state prison during Aurangzeb’s rule. The British continued using it as a prison, and the leaders of Indian National Army were imprisoned here in 1945, whose memorial has been developed inside the fort. The fort has now been renamed as Swatantrata Senani Smarak (Freedom Fighters' Memorial).
Salimgarh Fort is located at a distance of 1 kilometer north-east from the Red Fort on the Ring Road after crossing the National Memorial.
The preferable timing for visiting the fort is between 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. and the fort is open on all days.


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Purana Qila: The Old Fort

Delhi has a major fort that is very popular, the Red Fort in Old Delhi, where the Prime Minister unfurls the national flag on Indian Independence Day (August 15th). But the Red Fort was constructed by the 5th Mughal, Shah Jehan. What was there before that ?
Well, the answer is the Purana Qila (Old Fort). Located on Mathura Road, very centrally, right next to the Delhi Zoo, next to Pragati Maidan, and connected by a short road to India Gate. This looks much more of a ruin, as compared to the Red Fort. The Old Fort has a chequered history, having been completed by the Afghan ruler, Sher Shah Suri who had managed to over-throw the second Mughal, Humayun. The idea of the fort was to defend the city against invaders, and this worked till Sher Shah died 5 years later.
Humayun was able to win his way back over the throne, and occupied the fort. However, the reign was short, and he died in a fall from the steep steps of the library. After his death, the Mughals considered the fort as cursed, and eventually started the construction of a new fort, the Red Fort. The Purnana Qila is a wonderful garrison, with its walls being very high, as high as 20 meters in some places, and with a circumference of around 2.5 kilometers. The fort introduced the concept of spy holes in the walls, something which was copied by other forts.
The Old fort also has a way to show tourists about the history of the city through an incredible sound and light show, run by Delhi Tourism.

Tickets available at - DTTDC Office, N-36, Connaught Place, New Delhi, India 110001.
Phone : +91-11-3315322

Connaught Place Coffee Home, New Delhi, India 110001.
Phone : +91-11-3363607

The Old Fort is supposed to have been built on the site of the historic Indraprastha, the capital of the Pandavas. In some excavation at the site of the Old Fort, pottery dating back to 1000 BC has been found; and in addition, coins and such relating to the Gupta and post-Gupta dynasties (4th century AD onwards) have also been found.


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Khooni Darwaza on Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg

This is an old quartzite structure, just a short distance from the ITO crossing, and right next to Maulana Azad Medical College (in fact, the gate became even more infamous a few years ago (December 2002) when a medical college student was raped on the gate, something that was a horror !). It is a protected monument because of its historical background.
The Khooni Darwaza has a history that makes the name easy to understand. It was originally called the Kabuli Darwaza (Gate) in Sher Shah Suri's time since it is believed that caravans to Kabul would pass through it. The gate is an imposing structure if you look at it closely (it is 15.5 metres high), and one can imagine it to be a bustling structure at that point of time.
However, it started getting a bloody reputation during the Mughal rule after that. The bodies of criminals, and thieves, and also those whom the emperor ordered dead were displayed at the gate, to be eaten by birds of prey. This tradition continued for a long time, with the Mughal emperor Jahangir ordering the death of 2 sons of Akbar's friend (who had committed the crime of supporting another brother in the succession battle). His grandson, Aurangzeb got the throne by killing his elder brother, Dara Shikoh, and ordered his head to be displayed over here.
During the First Battle for Independence in 1857, after the British won, they killed 2 sons and the grandson of the last Mughal (Bahadur Shah Zafar) here at the Gate. And this was not the end. During the Partition of the country in 1947, there were massive riots, and a number of refugees were killed here while trying to go to safety.
No wonder people avoid the Gate during dusk hours, as it is rumoured to be the haunt of spirits and ghosts of the people who died violent deaths over here.


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Akshardham temple in East Delhi

The Akshardham temple complex in Delhi is a magnificent structure, inaugrated in November, 2005. The President, APJ Abdul Kalam attended the inaugration. The complex has been built on the banks of the serene River Yamuna and lies over a sprawling 100 acres of lush manicured lawns adorned with water fountains and carved pavilions. The temple belongs to the Swaminarayan sect, and is open from 9 AM - 9 PM on all days except for Monday when it is closed. It can be very crowded on weekends. It is located at the intersection of the road coming from Nizamuddin Bridge and the road coming from Noida.
If entering the complex, please remember that there is heavy security, and even things such as mobile phones are not allowed. Leave them at home, or deposit them in the safe locker.
Besides the Swaminarayan temple the complex consists of the main monument, exhibition halls, an IMAX theatre and a musical fountain, surrounded by a garden. It also got a restaurant modeled on the Ajanta and Ellora caves and an Ayurvedic bazaar. The entire structure is made without steel as per Sthaapatya shastras of India, and is made from sandstone and marble.
Refer to the URL for the Akshardham temple. Some great photos of the Akshardham temple located at this link. Some additional photos are available at Flickr.
For a first-person read of a visit to the temple complex, read this post at Ghumakkar.com


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Delhi Parks: Lodi Garden

Delhi, with its heat and grime, is mostly like a concrete jungle. The parks that Delhi has are extremely valued for the green cover they provide, as well as a comfortable place for morning and evening respite from the heat. One such park, very famous in the Lodi Road area is Lodi Garden. Bounded by Jor Bagh on one side and right next to the India International Center, Lodi Garden is like a green paradise for people of all ages.
The garden houses a number of tombs of the Lodi and Sayed kings who ruled over Delhi in the 15th and 16th century. For a view of some of these structures, click on this link. Some of these tombs are in a surprising good condition, considering their age. But the main attraction of Lodi Garden are the well-kept lawns, excellent walks through some lush foilage and numerous trees. There are a fair variety of different types of plants and trees in the Garden.
The Garden is a favourite among India's civil servants, many of whom live close by, this also ensuring that the garden is always kept well-maintained. Visiting the Garden, you will find people of all ages coming for morning walks, jogs, for various games, couples out to have a good time, or people coming for a picnic. In the evening, the monuments are highlighted by halogen lamps. In winters, the Garden is a good place to bask in the sun.


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Delhi Tourism: India Gate

Come evening time, and people in Delhi many times feel the urge to go somewhere to relax, spend some time in an open space, and where kids can also get to eat some ice-cream or other such stuff. Going to parks in the evening is not exactly recommended, lighting is dim with a general sense of insecurity. In such times, there is a better alternative.
This is India Gate lawns. For people who do not know, India Gate is not only a war / soldier memorial, but there is a lot more. There are wide open, and fairly green large lawns all around the India Gate complex, essentially spreading from India Gate to one end, and moving towards the Rashtrapathi Bhavan at the other end (almost all the crowd is right next to the India Gate though).
There is adequate parking just nearby. Even in the heat, in the evening this place is decently cool. People get bedsheets and spread them on the ground, and can play cards, or just generally sit down over there.
You get all sorts of food stuff over there, with plenty of ice-cream, chana, fluffy candy, cold drinks, etc; so kids will never get bored. In addition, there are hawkers with small toys, some of which are really enjoyed by kids.


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Delhi Tourism: Jantar Mantar

This is an incredible place. Located in the heart of Delhi, within one of the busiest sections of the city, it stands out as a place of peace and quiet. Located at a stone's throw from Connaught Place on the busy Parliament Street, Jantar Mantar will be easily seen as a place of red structures, with a lot of open spaces between them.
What is the Jantar Mantar? This is a fact of history that was there in school text books, but not something that too many people in Delhi will remember. The Jantar Mantar is a set of astronomical instruments, built on a large scale. They were built by the Sawai Jai Singh in the early 18th century in 5 cities, Jaipur, Varanasi, Delhi, Ujjain and Mathura.
These instruments are meant to measure the movements of the sun, moon and planets. There is a massive instrument that depicts the time accurate to within 4 minutes, and there is another instrument that also depicts the time in 4 other cities as well. Another instrument depicts the longest and shortest days of the year.
These structures are an invaluable part of our cultural heritage. Read more about these at 1,2 and 3


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Delhi Tourism: Razia Sultan tomb in Old Delhi

Razia Sultan was unique. She was the only woman monarch of Delhi, that too in a time period when such an event was unthinkable. She was born in 1205, and died in 1240 (and ruled only for 4 years). Maybe because she was a woman, she had to face rebellions, and was eventually defeated and killed after losing to her brother. Read this link for more details.
One would think that her grave would be an important place, given her significance in history, but her grave remains in neglect for a long time. The grave can be found close to the Sitaram Bazaar and the Kalan Masjid, and is located in Bulbuli Khane locale. The grave is raised on a raised platform within the premises of an open courtyard. On one side, there is a serene center for prayer. Nowadays, with the movement to improve the upkeep of historial monuments, there is a much greater focus on trying to improve the condition of the tomb.
The tomb is open from sunrise to sunset, and can be reached from the Chawri Bazaar metro station. The other option is to reach old delhi and take a rickshaw from there.


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Delhi Tourism: Qutub Minar

When anybody from outside Delhi comes visting, quite a few of them want to see the sights of Delhi, including places that are tourist worthy. One of the places in Delhi to see from a tourist point of view is the Qutub Minar.
Located in South Delhi near Mehrauli (in fact if you go straight on Aurobindo Marg towards South Delhi, you will reach the Qutub complex). The Qutub Minar is named after Qutb-ud-din Aibak who started the tower, and it was completed by Iltutmish.
The Qutub Minar is 239 ft high and has 5 storeys. The complex contains another marvellous item - a 2000 year old 7 m high Iron Pillar.
For more details, please click here.







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